Bangkok

After two sleepless nights, a car ride to LA, three flights spanning almost 20 hours (all middle seats-damn!), and a high speed midnight taxi ride, I arrived on Khao San Rd in Bangkok. At one a.m., dreadlocked hippies, thin and beautiful, wandered down the small alleys, taxi drivers smiled and laughed as they chewed on kabobs from the roadside stands, the smokey smell of grilled meat wafting on the surprisingly refreshing breeze. I lugged my backpack behind a couple of young Germans just returning from the islands and checked into a bare 5 by 10 room with a bed and dresser, bathroom down the hall, for about 10 bucks a night. When I was here 11 years ago, I arrived about the same time of night but opted to stay in one of the notoriously grim and cheap cubicles on Khao San- particle board comprising the half walls with chicken wire at the top, exposing you to all the sounds and smells of your neighbors. Now that I'm 30, I've decided to splurge a little and at least get a place that doesnt include pets of the cockroach or rat variety, and brothels are definitely out this time. Less adventurous or older and wiser?

My first day in Bangkok I wandered through the nearby streets, taking in the crumbling teak buildings next to concrete monstrocities, greenish canals flowing through neighborhoods with laundry fluttering out windows. A tuk tuk driver was even nice enough to stop and offer me a special tour with a special price just for me!! How nice! I actually hopped on, knowing full well that my discount would be well earned when I had to refuse to buy whatever goods were pushed at the shop he would be getting a commission from. Som Pong took me to several beautiful temples where I dutifully slipped off my flops and took a few pictures of golden Buddhas in various poses. He also took me to a couple of tailor shops where I was hard sold on buying a cashmere suit. They were nicely made and I am sure they are priced relatively cheaply(Buddhist Day, extra discount for you!), but I tried to explain that I dont wear suits. I work on a boat. Blank stare. But if I ever had to buy a suit or two, I would come back to them.
Back into the tuk tuk, speeding through the streets of congested Bangkok, my water bottle empty and my stomach grumbling, I paid my driver my special price of 20 baht (at 30 baht/1 dollar) and was on my way. My philosophy about "special price for you" tours is if you know what you're getting into and can put up with a salesman for 10 minutes, it can be a cheap way to see the city. Kind of like those time share vacation scams.
In the sweltering afternoon heat, all you want to do is sit and nurse a cold drink. I ate my coconut soup with veggies and tofu and sipped on a cucumber-peppermint yogurt lassi- very refreshing.
Walking around Khao San Road, I tried to remember what it was like a decade ago. It seems so hip and slick now- I dont remember the big bars and fancy lounges and so many Americans. So many of the Westerners seem almost smug in their tank tops and short skirts, farmer pants and Indian shirts, as if they were the only ones brave enough to venture out of their home countries, obviously disregarding the hundreds of other foreigners eating banana pancakes and bargaining for a t-shirt that says DrunkyMonkey. I remember thinking the same thing years before, and having the same reaction: get me out of Bangkok.
Tonight I leave on a night train to the Laos border...